AC Repair in Omaha, NE: How to Handle 3 Typical Troubles

There can be several causes why your air conditioning won’t cool: a triggered circuit breaker, wrong thermostat settings, a turned off switch or an overfull condensate drain pan.

Your cooling won’t turn on when you have an overloaded breaker.

To determine if one has gotten overloaded, go to your residence’s main electrical panel. You can locate this metallic box on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.

• Ensure your hands and feet are free of moisture before you work on the panel or breakers.
• Locate the breaker marked “AC” and ensure it’s in the “on” spot. If it’s triggered the lever will be in the middle or “off” spot.
• Steadily move the breaker back to the “on” location. If it instantaneously trips again, don’t touch it and get in touch with us at 402-628-0206. A switch that keeps tripping might mean your residence has electrical trouble.

If your thermostat isn’t giving a sign to your equipment to work, it won’t activate.

The main step is checking it’s set to “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your air conditioner may not switch on. Or you might get. heated air coming from vents since the heater is on instead.

If you have a regular thermostat:

• Replace the batteries if the monitor is blank. If the monitor is displaying garbled numbers, get a new thermostat.
• Check the right program is showing. If you can’t alter it, override it by lowering the temperature and hitting the “hold” button. This will force your AC to work if the configuration is not right.
• Test setting the thermostat 5 degrees colder than the house’s temperature. Your AC won’t start if the thermostat is identical to the house’s temperature.

Once your thermostat is calibrated properly, you should receive cold air quickly.

If you have a smart thermostat, such as one produced by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, check the manufacturer’s website for help. If it still won’t work, reach us at 402-628-0206 for support.

Your air conditioner probably has a shut-off device around its outdoor unit. This switch is commonly in a metal box attached to your residence. If your unit has recently been repaired, the switch may have inadvertently been put in the “off” location.

Condensate drain pans catch the additional liquid your air conditioner pulls from the air. This pan can be situated either below or inside your furnace or air handler.

When there’s a blockage or clogged drain, water can become concentrated and trigger a safety control to turn off your air conditioner.

If your pan has a PVC pipe or drain, you can drain the surplus liquid with a formulated pan-cleaning tablet. You can purchase these tablets at a home improvement or hardware shop.

If your pan involves a pump, find the float switch. If the lever is “up” and there’s moisture in the pan, you might have to install a new pump. Contact us at 402-628-0206 for assistance.

If your equipment is going but not delivering cold air, its airflow might be clogged. Or it might not have sufficient refrigerant.

Your equipment’s airflow can be decreased by a blocked air filter or filthy condenser.

A filthy filter can lead to countless troubles, such as:

• Lower airflow
• Frozen refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
• Intermittent cooling
• Bigger cooling bills
• Leading your system to wear out faster

We suggest changing flat filters monthly, and accordion filters every three months.

If you aren’t sure when you last replaced yours, switch off your unit fully and remove the filter. You can locate the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It may also be situated in an attached filter case or wall-mounted return air grille.

Tilt the filter up to your light fixture. If you can’t see through it you certainly should replace it.

Greenery, grass and shrubbery can get in the way of your condensing system. This can restrict its airflow, lower its energy efficiency and impact your comfort. Here’s how you can get your equipment running properly again.

1. Shut off electricity completely at the breaker or outdoor lever.
2. Get rid of plant rubbish around the equipment. Once you’ve gotten rid of larger refuse within a two-foot space, you can use a soft brush or vacuum to carefully clean the condenser fins. Kinked fins can also affect capability, so you can attempt to straighten them with a blunt knife.
3. Use a hose nozzle to slowly clean the fins from inside the unit. Make sure to avoid getting moisture on the fan motor.
4. Replace the top and turn the power back on.

When cooling systems don’t have ample refrigerant, they’ll have to work much harder to remove heat and humidity from your home.

Here are several symptoms that your equipment is leaking refrigerant:

1. It takes an extended amount of time to cool your residence and you’re regularly decreasing the temperature on the thermostat.
2. Air coming through the vents isn’t as chilly as it should be.
3. You’re experiencing whistling or burbling racket when cooling runs.
4. Your evaporator coil is icy because it’s having trouble taking on warmth.

Worried your unit is losing refrigerant? You need a licensed heating and cooling service professional to fix the leak and restore the right level of refrigerant in your unit. Reach us at 402-628-0206 for help.

When it seems like you’re not having adequate amounts of cool air, there’s probably a blockage or separation within your cooling equipment.

• The initial place is examining your air filter. Get a new one if it’s dusty.
• Then make sure the ductwork is free around your residence.
• If you’re still not receiving ample chilly air, you should have your ductwork examined by a specialist like The Frazier Company. Your duct system may need to be serviced or hooked up again in limited space spots like your attic, basement or crawl space.